Socializing "Difficult" Cats

At VOKRA, we believe all kitties have the ability to adapt to indoor life, if handled appropriately and given lots of love and time. 
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​However, depending on the cat, this form of habituation can take weeks or months, even over a year. It is not always kind to impose such a long period of fear and stress on a cat, and requires a lot of resources. VOKRA aims to return feral and semi-feral adults to their original location whenever possible, or place them in barns if their original sites are unsuitable, so they can live out their lives happily and freely in the company of other cats. 

The exception to this are pregnant cats, cats with young kittens, in very poor health, or having injuries, or have some other circumstance that prevents them from adequately fending for themselves.​

​We aim to change the cat’s perception of humans from negative to positive by removing fear and distrust ​and allowing the cat's personality to shine through. Our goal is to transform a cat from aggressive, scared, or timid to happy, confident, and trusting, and to find the best possible home for each cat's individual needs.

What do we need from our fosters?

• Perseverance, patience and a positive attitude! ​
• >30 mins a day of "therapy time"​ outside of the regular routine.
• >3 month commitment. Cats being socialized need stability in order to progress.
• A suitable room or space for the cat.
• An understanding of the risks involved.

Types of "Difficult" Cats

1. Feral cats: little to no socialization with humans​
2. Semi-feral cats: some socialization but are self-reliant, wary of humans, and may have had negative experiences​
3. Semi-feral kittens 4 months -1 year old
4. Unsocialized kittens under 4 months old (see: Socializing Kittens Under 4 Months)
5. Fearful cats with aggression, withdrawal, or behavioural issues due to poor socialization 
6. Tame street cats (lost or abandoned) that may have reverted to semi-feral behaviour after time on the street

Understanding Scared Cats

Fear is a Survival Instinct

Small cats are both predators and prey animals. To a cat, humans are scary! Once in VOKRA’s custody, the cat has been separated from other familiar local cats and/or people. Which means that the rules of social interaction have suddenly changed, and the cat is now entirely dependent on humans. Street cats also face an entirely new environment: slippery floors, strange sounds and smells, changes in heat and humidity; and loss of their familiar food sources, familiar territory and independence. 

Timid Versus Fractious Kitties

Fearful or unsocialized cats have all kinds of personalities, but can be described within a spectrum of fight vs flight responses to fear. Cats that are timid when fearful tend to retreat, make themselves small, or run away when frightened. Some may initially allow handling and seem more socialized than they actually are, then become more hissy or swatty as they lose their fear.

Cats that are fractious when fearful are quicker to swat or bite in unfamiliar situations, and may become aggressive. They’re less afraid of angering you, and more assertive in their efforts to make you (the thing they’re fearful of) leave them alone. It’s important to remember that more confident cats are still reacting to fear of you, but they have learned that reacting aggressively gets better results. Fractious cats often seem slower to make progress initially, but once they’ve decided to trust you, they usually become confident and affectionate more quickly than timid cats.

Room Set Up

Never let scared cats run loose in your house!
​They will be terrified by the unknown surroundings. Scared/difficult cats should always start in a small room or kennel. Be cautious of escape attempts when entering and leaving their space.​

Setting Up the Space

Cats are very territorial, and go on high alert in unknown territory. So cats are generally much more stressed in large, open, unknown spaces. More space = more potential danger. Their survival instincts are telling them there might be a predator around every corner. Because of this, "difficult" kitties usually do best when they’re in a small confined space such as a bathroom or kennel: it reduces stress by reducing the size of their territory, and thus the number of things they have to worry about. It also keeps them accessible to you, so you can control the kind of interaction you have with them. 

Choose a space that is quiet, clean, and safe. If you have a space that can be dedicated exclusively to the kitties (e.g. a spare bedroom or spare bathroom), even better. 

​A Feliway diffuser in the cat’s room is recommended and can be requested from the VOKRA Operations Centre. The cat should stay in their sanctuary space until they’re confident and no longer fearful of you.

Security

Check your space for dangerous hiding spots and escape routes. Security is very, very important! 

Cats tend to seek out the tiniest hiding spaces. In the past, we have had to rescue scared cats from behind large appliances, crawl spaces and holes in cabinets or paneling, and even from inside walls and ceilings. If a scared cat gets into a spot we can’t reach, it can be extremely difficult to get them out again

• All windows should be screened and locked. 
• There should be no holes in the drywall (around pipes, etc.) that the cat can reach. 
• Air vent covers should be secure and not removable. We have had kitties pull off vent covers and hide for weeks in the ductwork.

Check the space for any potential tiny hiding spots, and block them off. You want the cat to have protected locations where they can feel safe, but not be so hidden that they can’t see what is going on around them. There shouldn’t be accidental hiding spots: under a bed, behind/inside a sofa, behind cupboards, etc. ​

Hiding Spots

​Stressed cats will want to burrow and hide, which is OK, but in order for them to learn to trust you, they have to be exposed to you. If they’re unable to observe you, they’ll never learn that you’re a safe person safe or start to associate you with good things.

• There should be easily accessible cat rest and hiding areas in every room the cat has access to. Cats are often frightened of people walking/moving around.
• Hiding spots should provide a good view of the room and be reasonably accessible to you.
• A travel carrier or cardboard box are good options that give the cats security and privacy while still allowing them to see you. Boxes can have peepholes cut into them.​

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Photo credit: @kittypocalypsevancouver

Provide Comfort

Marking: Cats need to feel ownership of their territory

• Marking by rubbing their cheeks or scratching (cats have scent glands in their paws) is how they identify safe/familiar places for themselves.
• Scratchers improve their confidence by allowing them to express their marking behaviours.
• It’s common for cats to initially have just one perch or safe spot where they feel safest being  petted or interacting with you... but nowhere else.

Environmental enrichment:

• Provide access to (or exclusion from…) other animals, window views, etc: according to the cat's individual needs.
• The feeding area should feel secure and safe, and be easily accessible from  the cat’s favourite hiding spot.  If possible, locating their food dishes in a raised place (e.g. a shelf or windowsill) can help them feel more comfortable. From a raised perch, you seem smaller and less threatening to them, and it is easier for the cat to greet you and be petted before and after eating.
• Ask Ops to send some of the cat's used litter. Put this in with the fresh litter to help the kitty feel comfortable with the box. A corner position for the liiterbox provides a sense of security from predators
• Place nice beds around the room and scatter a few treats and toys around the room whenever you go out or go to bed... This invites them out and encourages them to use their space and get comfortable in it. 
• Comfortable window perches, cat trees, and warm cat beds help cats feel happier and more relaxed.
• Rubber-backed rugs are good for providing grip on slippery  surfaces.
• Playing relaxing music, talk radio or podcasts in the room will help them become more comfortable and less fearful of human voices.
• A high perch with a good view allows the cat to feel safest while observing you - can be a tall cat tree, empty shelves, or on top of furniture​ ​

Using Non-Aggressive Human Body Language

Some guidelines for interacting with your scared foster kitty:

Avoid direct eye contact

• Look nearby at the cat’s chest or cheek. 
• Sidelong glances are less threatening than facing the cat directly.
• Yawning. Cats always see Yawning as a sign of non agression.
• Use "blinkies": Cats will softly blink at another individual to show friendly intentions
  • If eye contact is made accidentally: blink slowly (one full second) and then look away.
  • If/when the cat is looking at you, look near them and blink slowly several times.

Get down to the cat's level to interact

• Sit or lie on the floor, or allow the cat a high vantage point​ such as a cat tree, shelf or top of furniture
• Keep a relaxed body with open, non-threatening postures. 
• Avoid hunching or crouching - any position that suggests you might pounce or grab the cat.
• Tilt your upper body away from the cat
• When approaching the cat or reaching out (to give a treat, etc): avoid facing the cat with your shoulders square or looming overhead. Instead, angle your body off to the side so just one arm is reaching out - sideways, or even behind you.

Use calm, smooth, and deliberate movements

• Do everything with purpose: no fear, hesitation, jerky or uncertain movements. 
• Decide what you’re going to do and then calmly do it.

Speak in a soft, cheerful, normal voice

• Use a calm, slow, low voice when talking to the cat.
• Cats associate loud, high-pitched voices with distress calls.
• Loud, low voices are associated with aggression or territoriality.

Remember your palm is the "grabbing" surface of your hand

• Keep your thumb folded across your palm when offering a treat from your fingers
• When offering your hand for a sniff, do so with your palm down or with one pointed finger.
• Initially use the back of your finger/knuckle or one pointed finger to pet.

Understanding Cat Body Language

There is basic body language common to all cats but, like people, each individual cat will have their own way of interacting.

​Learning to read body language will help quicken the transition from scared to confident cat​. Learning to read your cat's specific body language will save you a few uncomfortable situations!

Scared and/or Defensive Posture

• Ears down or back;
• Whiskers forward;
• Hunched or crouched, sometimes facing away from you or attempting to hide;
• Pupils dilated, unblinking, avoiding eye contact.

Relaxed and/or Trusting Posture

• Ears up and tail;
• Relaxed, upright body;
• Looking directly at you.

Socializing Your Foster Cat

General Training Guidelines

Confidence comes from trust, and trust comes with predictability (and practice!): this is where patience comes in. 

Building confidence in a cat is about them knowing what you’re going to do, and feeling positive about it. You want to have positive, low-stress interactions with the cat until they have learned to expect a positive, low-stress interaction when you approach. The cat ceases to be afraid because they feel sure that nothing scary is going to happen.

Be Predictable

If the cat knows why you’re approaching/what you plan to do it builds confidence and reduces stress.

• Announce yourself before entering the room by saying hello and/or tapping on the door.
• Move slowly and calmly, and with confidence
• Give the cat words - eg “dinner,” “petting,” “treat” to communicate your intentions.
• Use positive/neutral behaviour reinforcement: no scolding! Also be confident, and prepare yourself for sudden cat movements to avoid yelping/jumping or knee-jerk reactions that might scare the cat.

Cat Speed

Base your speed of progress on the cat’s comfort level, different cats progress at different speeds. There is no standard timeline. Your foster cat may leapfrog over many of the steps suggested, and may also get stuck on others.

• When acclimating a cat to a new person/place/thing you want each “step” or level of interaction to push the cat’s comfort zone so the cat is just slightly uncomfortable, but not so stressed that there is hissing or hiding or swatting. 
• Stick to that level of interaction until the cat becomes comfortable with it, then take your next step: so you can make continual progress, without overwhelming the cat or causing too much stress.
• If the cat were to hiss/swat/run/hide at any point, you’d return to a step they’re fully comfortable with, and proceed with a smaller baby step next time.

​Trust happens faster if you go cat-speed! Because you’re building an additional layer of trust: the cat is learning that even if you do something unexpected, it won’t be something overly stressful.

Signs of Progress

• Relaxed body language: eye contact, "blinkies", stretching​
• The cat welcomes/enjoys/requests attention​
• The cat takes an interest in you​
• Increased confidence​
• Boundary pushing​: jumping on counters, play fighting with your hands or feet
• The cat spends more time being active on your schedule, and is less nocturnal​
• The cat starts talking​/meowing to you - at mealtimes, etc.

When the Cat Arrives

Put the cat's carrier in the room and talk softly and calmly to the cat in a low, slow voice​. Open the carrier door without facing the carrier, you can use a mirror to watch the cat come out and explore the room. Keep talking softly, allowing the cat to find suitable safe space (take note!). Do not make direct eye contact. Stay with the cat briefly, calmly talking, singing, etc. and leave after 5-10 minutes.

Stage 1 - Territory

Let the cat get comfortable in their space. The cat will mark the room with scratching and facial rubbing and the room will become a familiar and safe place.

• Encourage exploration by scattering dry food (or small portions of wet food) at different places and levels in the room, especially at night or when you go out. You can also see how active the cat is in your absence by what has been eaten. 
• Leave toys out for the cat to play with. Note if they have been moved (e.g. leave them in a pile in the centre and note if they’re scattered when you return). Playing shows that the cat is getting comfortable in the space.​

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Let the cat settle in for a day, then initially you want your interactions to be brief (=low-stress), positive (results in a treat), and frequent (builds a pattern of behaviour quickly) basically just go in and leave a treat near the cat several times a day. This builds positive expectations in the cat’s mind about what is going to happen when they hear you coming.

• When entering the room, you should move calmly and quietly. Cats are easily startled by quick, sporadic movements — especially if they’re uncertain or unfamiliar with their territory. Heavy footsteps and loud noises, such as vacuums can also frighten them. 
• It may help to approach from the same direction or use the same gestures and movements each time you enter the room and approach with food or treats.
• If the cat hisses or reacts badly: hold still and wait for the cat to calm down before moving closer or retreating. Blink slowly while looking just to the side of the cat. Try to wait for the cat to be calm before giving them their treat, so you are rewarding them for calming themselves.
• Don't try to lure the cat at this time. The cat should learn that when the human comes into the room, they get food, and nothing bad or stressful happens. 
• Talk to the cat when you enter the room and feed them, so the cat gets used to your voice and associates it with something positive. The cat will watch you from their hiding place. 
• Place the cat’s food near its "safe space" but preferably not so close that the cat is scared into hissing or swatting.

Stage 2 - Presence

Once the cat is eating in all parts of the room, and is eating their treats in front of you, you can start being present with the cat in its space. Don't force interaction: you just want to desensitize the cat to your presence.

• Sit, work, read, listen to music, or talk to friends AWAY from the cat's "safe space" but​ in the vicinity where the cat can see you. This is "therapy time" and is required for a minimum of 30 minutes/day but please spend as much time as possible.
  
• Napping in the cat’s space can be especially helpful, as it expresses trust (you’re letting yourself be vulnerable) and lets the kitty feel safe while checking you out.
  
• You can invite friends into the room so the cat gets used to a range of human voices and presences, but always under strict instruction to completely ignore the cat.
  
• Always allow the cat time to eat alone before you have "therapy time."
  
• Continue with this low-intensity interaction until the cat will come out of their hiding place to eat in your presence 
  
  • Offer treats but continue to be a non-threatening presence
    
  • Once the cat leaves their hiding spot in your presence to eat, it won’t be long before they approach you.
    
  • Stay calm and offer a fingertip for the cat to sniff, reward the cat with treats every time they sniff your finger in greeting
    

Stage 3 - Confidence

When the cat is comfortable and calm with you there, move on to Stage 3​: encouraging the cat to accept you and use the space while you’re present.  

• At mealtimes, start staying in the room after putting down the food, while still ignoring the cat.   
  
• Sit (be still but stay relaxed) next to their bowl at feeding time, keeping your back to the cat and reaching behind you to put one finger on the edge of their food dish for several minutes. Repeat until they will eat with you touching the dish
  
• When the cat comes out (breakthrough!), do not react. 
  
• Scatter a few treats around the room whenever you enter and exit. 
  
• Continue to spend time in the cat’s space outside of mealtimes
  

Stage 4 - Interacting

Once the kitty has gained some confidence and accepted your presence in the space, it’s time to start increasing interaction. Talk to the cat, reassuringly, cheerfully and calmly. Avoid using an apologetic or sympathetic tone of voice - you want to communicate to the cat that there is nothing to worry about.

Give the cat choices

• Don’t sneak pets while they’re eating or force them into submission.
• Always give them their treat whether they respond how you want or not. Never withhold food.
• Incorporate clicker training into your regime to communicate more effectively through positive reinforcement. We have books at ops if you’d like to try clicker training

Build Positive Associations

• Give food or treats whenever you enter or leave the room.
• Greet the cat verbally and offer your hand to sniff frequently​.
• Playing! Introduce when you can, depending on the cat's personality​.
• Use words (e.g. food, petting, treat) to build confidence and reduce stress by communicating your intentions.

Reassurance/Engagement
Skittish cats who are easily frightened and always ready to run away often benefit from a period of intensive frequent greetings, followed by praise. This can build confidence really quickly. 
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Get the cat to sniff your fingertip in greeting as frequently as possible: 

• Every time they approach you or you approach them, you enter/leave a room they are in, and any time you just pass by them
• Especially any time they look startled or ready to run away: if the cat runs and hides, go find them in their hiding place and offer your fingertip for a sniff

What this does: keeps the cat engaged with you, and reassures the cat that you see them and approve of them all the time. Essentially what you are doing is suggesting an easy interaction for them to perform successfully whenever they may be feeling anxious or unsure of how to respond to a situation.

Introducing Touch

When initiating touch, sources of contact can include giving food or using a toy to pet the cat. Remember the key to successful interaction is baby steps. Never force yourself on the cat or force the cat into an aggressive response. If the cat responds fearfully or aggressively, make your "steps" smaller. 

• Use your non-dominant hand and avoid looking directly at the cat​.
• Initially use the back or side of your hand, or knuckles with your thumb folded in. Do not open your palm like you might try to grab​ the cat.
• Approach the cat head first. Be at its mercy! 
• Allow the cat to define the level of interaction. If the cat panics or reacts poorly, stop petting and wait until the cat is calm before continuing or withdrawing your hand​.
• If the cat will eat with your hand on the plate, try holding the plate in your hands or moving your hand closer so that the cat touches you while eating.
• Get the cat eating treats from your hands: 
  • Initially offer kibble, treat food or baby food (Check the ingredients! No onion or garlic!) on a spoon to avoid getting your fingers chomped by accident - especially with kittens.
  • Then offer treats with your fingertips: wait a few moments for the cat to take the treat, but leave the treat anyway if the cat refuses. Repeat this, gradually holding the treat for longer and longer before putting it down: as you build trust, the cat's impatience for the treat will begin to outweigh any fear.
  • Once they will take the treat from your hand, gradually start putting the treat farther down your fingers until the cat is eating from your palm
  • Once eating from your palm, gradually cup your hand more and more until the cat is really shoving their face in your palm - This way the cat is touching you, instead of you touching them, which gives them agency. 
  • Do not sneak pets in with a cat that isn’t used to being touched - be trustworthy!
  • Bribing is ok! You’re building positive associations - and the cat gets to make the choice to touch you.

Some cats will continue to resist touching, even when they are quite confident around you. These are often kitties who have never been petted, so they don’t understand petting, or that petting can be a pleasant experience for both you and them. You can try a few of the following strategies and see what your kitty responds to best. 

If the kitty flinches or initially retreats, but comes back quickly for the treat, that’s ok, keep going. If you are finding the cat is increasingly resistant to any particular strategy as time goes on, stop using it and try something else, or contact your foster coordinator for help.

• Try approaching to touch from different angles: under the chin, alongside the face, touch the shoulder, etc. You may just have to go with the approach that is least offensive to the cat.
• Some cats may be open to having the underside of their front paws touched - as though they are touching you with their paws
• Occasionally touch the cat’s nose during a finger-sniff greetings, then immediately reward them with treats. Also do regular finger-sniffs, where you don’t touch them and without treats: so the kitty learns that the touch is what is getting them treats. Repeat this until the cat is comfortable with the single touch. 
  • Some especially food-motivated kitties will start ‘leaning in’ for the nose touch to get their treat. 
  • Once the cat is comfortable with their nose being touched, try transitioning to touching other places by touching the nose a little longer, touching twice, or sliding your finger up their nose a little bit, or touching their forehead or cheek. Cats naturally bunt and rub their cheeks on things they like, so these are the places they are most likely to be responsive to touch.
• Sometimes hesitant cats will be more open to touching if you use their word for “treats”.
• If there is a friendlier cat in the home, try giving them a treat together several times a day. Pet the friendly cat and repeatedly greet the more difficult cat for 30 seconds to a minute BEFORE giving their treat. Sometimes the more difficult cat will get excited enough to sidle up to the friendlier cat, giving you an opportunity to touch them and/or brush against them without it being upsetting.​​

Toys and Playing

Safe Toys
When choosing toys for your cat, safety should always come first. The right toy
depends on your cat’s size, energy level, play style, and environment. While no
toy can be guaranteed completely safe, these guidelines will help you minimize
risks:
• Avoid household hazards: Cats are often drawn to string, yarn, ribbons,
rubber bands, milk jug rings, paper clips, pins, or needles. These can cause
serious injury if swallowed.
• Modify unsafe toys: Remove small parts like ribbons, feathers, strings, or
plastic eyes that could be chewed off.
• Choose washable toys: Soft toys should be machine-washable. Look for
child-safe labeling (safe for children under 3 years old) and avoid fillings
like nutshells or polystyrene beads.
• Skip rigid toys: Most cats prefer toys they can bat, bite, or kick over hard,
inflexible ones.

Toys We Recommend

Active Toys
• Plastic shower curtain rings – fun to bat, carry, or link together and hang.
• Plastic balls (with or without bells) – great for rolling games.
• Ping-Pong or practice golf balls – try in a dry bathtub for endless fun.
• Paper bags (handles removed) – perfect for hiding, pouncing, or
distracting your cat. Never use plastic bags.
• Sisal-wrapped toys – excellent for cats who don’t show interest in softer
toys.
• Cardboard rolls (from toilet paper or paper towels) – cats love batting
and unraveling them.
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Catnip Toys ( for Adult Cats Only)
• Catnip-stuffed toys – ideal for kicking, carrying, or rubbing.
• Loose catnip – sprinkle on a towel or mat for easy cleanup.
• Catnip spray – a tidy alternative to leaves.