Secure Window Screens

Making Secure Window Screens

Regular window screens are made to keep bugs out, not to keep cats in! - VOKRA

One of the most important jobs a foster has is to keep their foster kitty safe inside the foster home. Each year, foster cats escape through regular window screens. Kitties can easily pop out the screens by applying pressure, or by biting/scratching a hole in the screen. This page contains ideas some of our fosters have used to make secure, cat-safe window screens in their homes. If you are renting, be sure to obtain permission from your landlord before trying the options below.

When making a window screen, always ensure your screens are cat-proof! Test them, wiggle them, push, pull, rattle and shake them until you are confident that they will hold up to a cat. Ensure that you monitor their wear over time and repair them as necessary. If you are not certain they will hold up, please do not leave your foster kitty unsupervised with them.

Option 1: Easy for Sliding Windows

Smaller sliding windows can be secured with parts from modular storage cubes. These are available at a number of retailers (such as Jysk, Walmart, Home Depot) or online (Amazon). We sometimes have some at Ops and are happy to provide them to fosters.

These work in any sliding window opening that has a track for the panels to sit securely in. They may not work for older wooden windows that slide up to open.

Supplies Needed

Wire grid panels
Large zipties
A block or stick to hold the window closed

Instructions

Join two or more panels together to fit the height of your window by overlapping a couple of rows and securing the ends of both panels with zipties. This will keep your panel flat and rigid. If you do not overlap the panels, your solution will be floppy.
Open the window and fit the screen into the sliding track, then slide the window against the panels. This should mean that 3 slides are securely trapped within the window track.
Place a block or stick in the sliding track on the other side of the window to keep it fitting tightly to the panels and prevent the panels from becoming lose.

Overlap your panels for rigidity

Option 2: Ikea Hack

Submitted by VOKRA Adopter Susan Ng and her kitty Jonesy

Supplies Needed
Note: the supplies you need will vary for your window size

Metal wall panel (used generally for wall decorations). Example: www.amazon.ca/dp/B07J4LW531/ref=sbl_dpx_B07J4LW531_0
IKEA IVAR Side Unit (20x70) x2 (www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/ivar-side-unit-83756609)
Wood trim pieces (1/2 inch thick)
Heavy duty staple gun and 1/2 inch staples
Saw
Power drill
#8 1 inch flat screws

Instructions

Cut the IVAR unit to the correct size for your window. It should fit the frame, but have room to slide to the right and left.
Staple the metal grid to one side of the frame, and then do the other. This works better if you staple one side first, careful to staple really close to the corner. Staple as many connection points as you can.
Place the frame on the window, with the staples facing out.
Place the trim pieces so they can hold the frame in place. Use 4 trim pieces, one for each corner of the frame.
Screw the trim pieces to hold the frame.

Note the wood trim in the corners to hold the frames in place

Option 3: Framed DIY Window Screens

1. Fitting the Screen to the Window

Fixed or Hinged Screens - If you are willing and able to screw into the window frame, your screens can be attached with a few small brackets.

This is your easiest and most economical option.

Screens can be fixed to the window frame with brackets just inside sliding windows so that the window still slides open and closed.

Screw-less fixed screens for sliding windows - sliding windows often have an exterior track that aligns with the fixed portion of the window. You can often fit your screen to this track so that it is fixed in place, but doesn't interfere with the sliding portion of the window on the inner track. You will need to partially disassemble it, and then reassemble it in place so that your screen is fixed "permanently" (disassemble to remove) within the window frame, without using screws.

NOTE!!: these screens will need to be made with the corner braces on the inside/good face and the mesh on the outside/bad face so that they can be reassembled once in place.

Your screen will need to fit into the track on 3 edges:

Measure from the inside edge to inside edge of the opening at the top and bottom: the screen will drop into the track at the bottom, leaving a slight gap at the top.
Measure the width from the depth of the groove to the depth of the groove for the screen width: subtract 1/16" to give yourself a little wiggle room

This will also work for windows that slide up and down, if there is an exterior track to fit the screen into. You will make the screen with the same orientation, so that the gap is at the top and both sides fit securely into the window track.

Once assembled, just unscrew the corner braces from one of the side pieces and flex the screen into the window track, as shown on the right, then reattach the corner brace to lock the screen into place.

NOTE: It's perfectly ok if your screen isn't the full thickness of the window track, as long as it is secured in the frame and can't be removed.

Removable Screens - If you need removable screens, or to avoid damage to the window frame, your screens need a means of attaching securely to the opening. The exact size of your screens may vary based on how they will be attached, or how they fit into the window track, etc.
Screens can be fixed to the window frame just inside sliding windows so that the window still slides open and closed.

Magnets - If you have metal windows, the easiest option is to use magnets: do check that magnets work on your windows, not all metals are "magnetic"

Lee Valley Tools (1180 SE Marine Drive) sells rare-earth magnets that are your best option, magnet cups make attaching them to your screen quick and easy and increase the magnetic strength. I recommend using 4 of the 1/2" size magnets (9 lb strength), with cups, per window screen (about $5 for 4 magnets and $4 for 4 cups)

If you choose this option be sure that your screen is large enough for the magnets to make contact with the metal edges of the window. It is also preferable for the screen to be contacting the window sill/frame along the bottom, this will stop the screen from sliding down if weighted. Once magnet cups have been screwed on, check for good contact with the window edges BEFORE putting the magnets in the cups (they are tough to get out again!)

Drop-in screens for sliding windows - sliding windows (and doors) can have removable screens that drop into the window track.

Per diagram: the screen fits in the track along 2 adjacent edges and is held in place by the sliding window. The sliding portion of the window will often be grooved on its outer edge, allowing the window to hold the screen securely along 3 edges. If not, the edge of the screen that meets the window will need hardware attached that will bracket it to the outer window edge.

Your screen needs to be able to fit through the opening into the window track, so measure from the inside edge of the opening at the top, to the
bottom of the window track at the bottom.

This screen configuration will also work for windows that slide up and down. Just rotate the diagram!

The window then needs to be secured in place to prevent accidental opening. A block will stop the window from sliding, but sliding windows sit loosely in their tracks at the top, and can often be lifted or rocked loose. If there is significant rocking, please put a stopper of some sort in the top track to prevent vertical movement of the window.

Depending on the thickness of your window and/or the configuration of its track: you may want thicker material to frame your screen, or extra material, or different hardware to secure the edge that meets the window. NOTE: It's perfectly ok if your screen isn't the full thickness of the window track, or moves around within the track... as long as it is secured in the frame and can't be removed.

Push-out windows
Push-out windows make things a bit more difficult: the screens must be removeable, as they will interfere with the opening and closing of the window itself. Where possible, magnets are the easiest solution for this type of window.

For windows without (magnetic) metal frames, 2 screens can be made to sit side by side into the window track so that they occupy the track along the bottom and both sides of the window.

Per diagram: each half of the screen slots into the window track at the side and then slides down into the bottom track, and then the 2 halves lock onto each other at the centre using a slide bolt or latch.

This screen configuration should also work for push-out windows that hinge sideways. You want to just rotate the diagram, keeping the edge that does NOT fit into a track on the "hinge" side of the window

(note that the screens have changed orientation, so that the top and bottom pieces are still sandwiched between the side pieces- this affects how you calculate your measurements)

Check that the screen will slot into a secure groove in the window frame... If it does NOT have a nice secure track for your screen to sit in, you can add clips to the outside edge of each screen that will grab onto the window frame as you slide the screen into the side portion of the window track. (diagram below: red).

These mirror holders are a tried and true choice for the "clips" specified above. They will have a decent amount of overlay and will leave plenty of room for movement when you are trying to put the screen in place

Plastic mirror clips may be kinder to vinyl frames...

Slide bolts are another option, simply place them so that the bolt extends securely across the face of the window frame once the screens have been put in place...

HARDWARE PARTY! Feeling overwhelmed? Underwhelmed? Unenthused? Here's a bunch more fun and/or functional catches, latches, slide bolts and etceteras from Lee Valley that will hopefully get your creative juices flowing!!

2. Making Your Screen

Making the screen itself is a relatively simple process, per assembly diagram below. L-brackets hold the wood frame together and then the screen is cut and screwed in place on the frame. Recommended lumber and hardware are pictured below. You will need a power drill, 3/32" drill bit, driver bits for your screws, and a pair of tin snips (aviation snips).

If you do not have access to tools for cutting your lumber to length, large hardware stores sometimes provide this service... the Home Depot at 900 Terminal Ave does. Call or check online to be sure at other stores. You will need to plan your windows and have your measurements ready when you go in.

*NOTE: when getting your measurements, be aware that these screens go together with the top and bottom pieces of the frame sandwiched between the side pieces. Because of this you will want your top and bottom to be the desired width of the frame MINUS the width of the side pieces. Because lumber sizes can vary, the most accurate way to calculate the length of your top and bottom pieces is to measure for the full size of the frame, then take your tape measure to the store and simply measure 2 widths of the lumber in the store and subtract that from your measurement.

Materials

Pine 1"x 2" lumber is sturdy, paintable, and your cheapest option. avoid MDF as it breaks easily and will come apart if rained on.

Note that lumber sizes are nominal, actual dimensions will be closer to 3/4"x 1 1/2"

You can get your lumber in 7' or 14' lengths, 14' lengths are cheaper per foot, but keep in mind you will pay for the entire piece of lumber, not just the pieces you have cut.

Corner Braces are available in various styles, these L-shaped surface braces are cheap, easy to use and make for a relatively sturdy frame.

You will want to use 1/2" to 5/8" long screws only, to avoid your screws poking through the other side. Check that your hardware comes with appropriate length of screws, and that you have the correct driver bit for them. If not, purchase 5/8" flat-head screws to fit your driver bit.

If you have the tools and know-how, you can dowel your frame together or use your own choice of joinery method.

Fancy Hardware: If you have the time and prefer to spend a few extra dollars on nicer looking hardware, Lee Valley Tools on Marine Drive has a great selection of functional and attractive hardware. Prices are available online.

Keep in mind the dimensions of your lumber when choosing hardware, and ask at the desk if you are unsure whether something will work for your screen - the staff is very helpful.

*Note that some or all of the assembly steps below may not apply for different hardware

Screening Material: I recommend 1/4" hardware mesh as screening material. It is a square metal mesh intended for garden fencing: strong enough to hold up to a rambunctious cat and not unreasonably ugly.

If you want bug-proof screens I recommend just overlaying it with regular bug screening. "Pet-proof" screening is also available, usually in windows and doors sections, it is more expensive - around $45 for 31" x 6 1/2 feet and I was unable to find an online catalogue link for it. I personally am more comfortable having hardware mesh, and wouldn't leave an active cat unsupervised with just the pet-proof screening.

Hardware mesh is also available in 1/2", 3/4", and 1" mesh: the larger mesh sizes are also slightly cheaper

If you are looking for something fancier, you should also consider the expanded Aluminum Mesh at Metal Supermarket in Burnaby

Attaching the screen: Truss-head or pan-head screws (rounded heads) and small, light washers will hold the mesh securely in place, You will want to add a screw every approx 4". Pre-drill to prevent splits in the wood.

If you use bug screen or "pet-proof" screen you will want to staple or tack it tightly into place to smooth out any puckering, probably every 1/2" - 1" along the edges. Flat thumbtacks will work. Lee Valley has a slew of decorative nails and tacks.

Assembling the Screen
1. Lay out your pieces on a flat surface the way they will be assembled. Be sure to have the top and bottom sandwiched between the sides, and check your measurements.

2. Hold the corner brace in place and use its holes to mark where your screws will go. DO NOT put the braces too close to the edge of the wood, or it may split when you put the screws in, always leave about 1/4" (~5 mm) between the screw and the edge of the wood. Pre-drilling your screw holes will also help prevent splitting.

TIP - You will want to keep the joints nice and tight and square while marking your screw holes: using masking tape to hold everything in place is helpful, and you can do all your pre-drilling with the masking tape in place.
TIP - Be careful not to drill all the way through when pre-drilling! Wrapping a piece of masking tape around your drill bit 1/2" (~10 mm) from the end of the bit will give you a visual reference to avoid this: stop drilling when the masking tape reaches the wood.

3. Per diagram: Use your 1/8" drill bit to pre-drill for the 2 screws closest to the corner, for each corner. Put the first 2 screws in each corner, then check that your frame is still square by measuring both diagonals - adjust the frame if needed. Then with your brackets still attached, pre-drill and screw into the remaining holes.

4. Lay the frame over the hardware mesh and mark out where to cut, then use your tin snips to cut it close to the wires of the mesh so there are a minimum of little pokey bits along the edge. It is unlikely the mesh will be square, but usually it is square enough to cut a rectangle that can be screwed securely to the frame without any overhanging edges.

"pet-proof" or bug screening can simply be cut with a utility/exacto knife.

5. Screw the mesh/screening in place along all 4 edges, keeping it as flat as possible.

If you are using fancy hardware, or making sliding window screens that need to be partially disassembled to fit into place, you'll want to put the mesh/screen on the opposite face from the hardware
If you are using the cheap corner braces, you'll want to put both the hardware and mesh to on the same (bad) face. Stop short of the corner braces: with all the frame pieces held in place by the mesh, unscrew and remove each corner brace in turn, then lay it over top of the mesh and screw it back in place using the same screw holes.
If you are using "pet-proof"/bug screening: keeping taut, screw the 4 corners in place and then screw every approx 4 inches. Tack or staple along the rest of the edge.